Prüm uses the metaphor “Pommard-like” to describe Zeltinger’s broader shoulders. It’s a slumbering giant with tightly wound crystalline fruit underpinned by an intense slatey core. The Wehlener, in a word, is breathtaking. Filled with galloping texture, phenolic tension and complex depth, there’s an extra dimension of structure here. Even so, it is just giving us a glimpse of its great future—remember that patience is a virtue!