This is Katharina Prüm’s desert island category. Light in body but intense in flavour, the wines deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and slate-like minerality, unique to the Mosel. As always, there is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily more overt sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table.

Smoke, lime zest, the ripest Mirabelle, and a highlight of chervil play on the nose of the 2021 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese. More air brings wonderfully ripe notions of lemon zest, not quite candied but delightfully ripe. The palate is rounded, concentrated, profound and full of golden yet citrus-edged fruit. Slightly richer than the other Spätlesen but beautifully long with alluring ripe lemon and lime freshness. Weightless substance. Wonderful